A TRIP TO THE MAGICAL TOWN OF GALENA, ILLINOIS: A MAIN STREET STUCK IN TIME
It was hard to believe that we were still in Illinois as the omnipresent flat prairie farmlands had given way to the rolling hills of the northwestern portion of the state as we made our way west on a worn two-lane highway. We were passing through quaint farms and picturesque pastures as we made our journey west. It was difficult to believe that we were still in Illinois.
The Ice Age glaciers that had crushed through the state’s hills and valleys, leaving them table-top smooth, had somehow missed Jo Daviess County, which resulted in a magnificent landscape of undulating hills and steep cliffs along the Mississippi Valley. Jo Daviess County is located in the state of Wisconsin.
GALENA SETTLERS
Galena is a wonderful throwback to simpler times, anchored to the north by the Wisconsin border and located approximately 12 miles east of the Mississippi River and Iowa. In the 1820s, when Galena was first established, the discovery of lead brought an influx of miners.
The town called for the Latin word for lead expanded rapidly to become the busiest river port north of New Orleans, where its ore was transported by paddle-wheelers to the Mississippi and other Midwestern ports. During a brief period in the 1830s, Galena had more residents than Chicago.
Historic significance abounds, preserved in the form of majestic buildings from the nineteenth century. The town is pleased to show off its weathered yet endearing facades, as more than 85 percent of it is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Food-centric restaurants and an eclectic array of delightful shops now call the red brick and colorful awning-clad buildings where they were once housed home to steely-eyed merchants and saloon-keepers serving a hard-working and hard-drinking clientele.
THE GOLDMOOR INN
The romantic in all of us can find a place to stay at this one-of-a-kind bed and breakfast, which sits on 23 acres on a bluff overlooking the Mississippi River about 8 miles outside of town.
All of the rooms feature king-sized beds, whirlpool tubs that can fit two people, fireplaces, and plenty of other comforts—including towel warmers—to keep the wife raving the whole time. Muffins, yogurt, and delicious peach-topped French toast were delivered to our room for breakfast.
We had a leisurely breakfast and then set out for the city. We crossed the Galena River (originally called the Fever River until city fathers thought better of it), turned left onto Main Street, and drove through floodgates that stand twenty feet tall to protect the city’s architectural treasures from the once-in-a-lifetime floods that have occurred as recently as 2018.
EXPLORING GALENA
We were able to find a parking spot shortly after getting off the main strip. Parking spots are in high demand because a section of Main Street is blocked off to cars, making it more of a pedestrian mall.
As the day progressed, it became clear that the mild early spring weather had attracted a large number of adventurers wanting to escape the dreary winter. People were out in force at the outdoor restaurants, and the shops in the area were bustling with activity.
Main Street hosts well over a hundred unique stores, restaurants, and watering holes. As we walked around, we came across stores like Galena Canning Company, which sells a mind-boggling variety of flavorful condiments.
Located in the heart of downtown, Galena Cellars Vineyard & Winery features a tasting room, patio, and gift shop. Poopsie’s is a cool store where you can buy a bunch of weird stuff to satisfy your inner child. You will get a wide variety of teas and spices at Galena’s Spice & Tea Merchants.
Galena’s oldest building, the Dowling House dates back to 1826 and was constructed from local limestone. Since it was once a trading post, it is decorated with authentic artifacts from the early days of settlement to demonstrate how people lived on the “frontier.”
We needed a break, so we went into the Green Street Tavern for a drink. The DeSoto House Hotel, which houses the tavern, first opened on April 9, 1855, with the slogan “Largest Hotel in the West.”
HISTORIC TREASURES OF GALENA
It has a long history, since both Abraham Lincoln and Stephen Douglas gave addresses there during their respective presidential campaigns. The hotel served as Ulysses Grant’s headquarters throughout his presidential campaign.
When discussing Galena, the name Ulysses S. Grant inevitably comes up. Even though he wasn’t born in Galena, the locals accepted him with open arms.
After graduating from West Point, the man who would go on to become the most important Union commander of the Civil War and a two-term president had fallen on hard times before settling in Galena. In 1860, his family’s financial situation had changed, and he was forced to move here to work as a clerk in his father’s leather goods store.
Grant swiftly organized and trained local recruits as war broke out. He became the Union’s commanding general with the help of Elihu B. Washburne, a congressman from Galena.
When Grant came home from the war, the people of Galena gave him a brand new, completely equipped house as a gesture of their appreciation. Grant’s modest home is still standing and looks essentially the same as it did all those years ago; it’s made of brick, has green shutters, and has white trim.Daily guided tours are available.
THE CITY OF STEPS
Galena’s houses are an attraction in and of themselves, with many open for visits. The city is compact and easily navigable by foot, albeit with some effort. The city’s location cut into a hillside has earned it the affectionate or derogatory moniker “City of Steps.”
There are at least a dozen staircases that lead from one street to another in the city. From the top of the 192 heart-pounding stairs that go from Main Street at the Desoto House to Bench Street and onward to Prospect, you can take in breathtaking panoramas of the city and Grant’s Park across the river.
The Galena & U.S. Grant Museum may be found halfway up Bench Street, between Main and Prospect. The Italianate mansion that now houses this fantastic museum was constructed as a private home by Galena merchant Daniel Barrows in 1858. Grant, the Civil War, lead mining (including a peek into a genuine mine), and local history are all represented at the museum.
Cross the river and head to Grant Park for some peace and quiet. Grant Park is a beautiful space that spans over 3 acres. You may get away from the hustle and bustle of Main Street and relax in the shade of the tall trees and the gazebo.
There is a bronze statue of the park’s namesake and many cannons from the Civil War in the park. We enjoyed a picnic and just sitting on a bench to take in Galena’s beauty, and we think you will too.
GALENA SHOPS
The dining scene in Galena is full of delights also. Galena Brewing Company is right on Main Street. Beer lovers will enjoy all the choices they have. Their Farmer’s Blonde Ale went down easily on a warm afternoon. The menu is a good selection of pub grub, but the one lb. pretzel really got our attention.
Located in the building that housed the Grant family’s leather shop, Fried Green Tomatoes was our choice for dinner. My wife loved the cedar-planked walleye and I dove into the comfort of homemade meatloaf served atop of a slice of thick cornbread and topped by a mound of garlic mashed with a honey-based sauce. Comfort food, indeed.
Our final evening found us seated in Adirondack chairs on the lawn of the Goldmoor, looking over the bluff as a colorful sun set across the Mississippi River. Galena is full of appeal and we had barely scratched the surface. We watched the sun dip into the river and planned our return.
