AN ORIGINAL VIEW OF GLACIER NATIONAL PARK
It was hard to believe we were still in Illinois as we drove west on a battered two-lane highway into the northwest corner of the state, where the flat prairie farmlands gave way to undulating hills. On our way to the west, we saw several gorgeous farms and fields. Keeping in mind that we were still in Illinois seemed impossible.
Jo Daviess County is a beautiful area in Illinois with rolling hills and steep cliffs along the Mississippi Valley because the glaciers that carved out the state during the Ice Age missed there. The county of Jo Daviess is in Wisconsin.
GALENA SETTLERS
Anchored to the north by the Wisconsin border and about 12 miles east of the Mississippi River and Iowa, Galena is a delightful escape to a bygone time. First settled in the 1820’s, miners flocked to Galena with the discovery of lead.
The small village, named in Latin for lead, soon grew into the busiest river port north of New Orleans; paddle-wheelers hauled its ore down the Galena River onto the Mississippi and ports throughout the Midwest. By the 1830s, Galena’s population was briefly greater than Chicago‘s.
Steeped in historical distinction, its grand nineteenth-century architecture is frozen in time. With more than 85 percent of the town on the National Register of Historic Places, it presents its well-worn but charming facades proudly.
The red brick and colorful awning-clad buildings once occupied by steely-eyed merchants and saloon-keepers serving a hard-working and hard-drinking clientele are now home to food-centric restaurants and an eclectic array of delightful shops catering to weekend visitors seeking anything but hard work.
THE GOLDMOOR INN
My wife Kathy and I checked into The Goldmoor Inn, our weekend lodging of choice, which looks like it was lifted straight from an episode of Downton Abbey.
This 23-acre monument to old-world luxury, located about 8 miles outside of town on a hill above the Mississippi River, is sure to please the romantic in all of us.
Each suite features a king-sized bed, a Jacuzzi tub that can accommodate two people, a fireplace, and other comforts—including a towel warmer—that are sure to keep the wife raving. Muffins, yogurt, and delicious peach-topped French toast were delivered to our room for breakfast.
We ate breakfast slowly and then set off for the city. We crossed the Galena River (originally called the Fever River until city fathers thought better of it), turned left onto Main Street, and drove through floodgates that stand twenty feet tall and have been closed as recently as 2018 to protect the city’s architectural treasures from the once-in-a-lifetime floods that seem to occur every few years.
EXPLORING GALENA
We managed to pull off the main strip and into a parking spot very fast. Because to the closure of a section of Main Street to vehicle traffic, parking is in short supply and the area is popular with pedestrians.
It was clear that the bright early spring day had attracted a large group of travelers in search of a break from the long winter. People were out in force at the outdoor restaurants, and the shops in the area were bustling with activity.
Main Street hosts well over a hundred unique stores, restaurants, and watering holes. We went for a trip through the downtown area and saw stores like Galena Canning Company, which sells an amazing variety of condiments.
Located in the heart of downtown, Galena Cellars Vineyard & Winery features a tasting room, patio, and gift shop. Poopsie’s is a cool boutique that caters to the inner child in all of us by stocking a wide variety of quirky and unusual products. Galena’s Spice & Tea Merchants stock a wide variety of teas and spices.
Galena’s oldest building, the Dowling House dates back to 1826 and was constructed from local limestone. Built as a marketplace, its rustic furnishings and authentic artifacts provide visitors a glimpse into the past and the “frontier.”
We needed a break, so we went into the Green Street Tavern for a drink. The DeSoto House Hotel, which houses the tavern, first opened its doors to the public on April 9, 1855, with the slogan “Largest Hotel in the West.”
HISTORIC TREASURES OF GALENA
It has a long history, since both Abraham Lincoln and Stephen Douglas gave addresses there during their respective presidential campaigns. Ulysses Grant’s presidential campaign headquarters was located in the hotel.
When discussing Galena, the name Ulysses S. Grant inevitably comes up. Even though he is not a local, the people of Galena have accepted him with open arms.
The West Point grad who rose to become the Civil War’s most influential Union commander and a two-term president had fallen on hard times prior to settling in Galena. In 1860, he moved here to work as a clerk in his father’s leather goods store after experiencing a change in his financial situation.
When war broke out, Grant swiftly enlisted and prepared locals to fight. With the help of fellow Galena native and Congressman Elihu B. Washburne, he worked his way up the ranks and became the Union’s overall commander.
When Grant came home from the war, the people of Galena gave him a brand new, completely equipped house as a gesture of their appreciation. Grant’s modest home is still standing and looks essentially the same as it did all those years ago; it’s made of brick, has green shutters, and has white trim.Daily guided tours are available.
THE CITY OF STEPS
Galena’s residences are a tourist attraction in their own right, and examining them is a popular pastime. The city is tiny and highly walkable, albeit demanding at times. The city’s location cut into a hillside has earned it the affectionate or derogatory moniker “City of Steps.”
The city’s streets are connected by a dozen distinct staircases. From the top of the 192 heart-pounding steps leading up from Main Street at the Desoto House to Bench Street and then Prospect, you can take in breathtaking panoramas of the city and Grant’s Park on the other side of the river.
At about halfway up Main Street from Prospect, the Galena & U.S. Grant Museum may be found. This fantastic museum can be found in the former home of Galena merchant Daniel Barrows, an Italianate palace constructed in 1858. Grant, the Civil War, lead mining (including a peek into a genuine mine), and local history are all represented at the museum.
Get over the river to Grant Park if you need some peace and quiet. Grant Park is a beautiful space that spans over 3 acres. You may get away from the hustle and bustle of Main Street and relax in the shade of the tall trees and the gazebo.
There is a bronze statue of the park’s namesake and many cannons from the Civil War in the park. It was a lovely picnic spot, and we enjoyed just sitting there and taking in Galena’s beauty.
GALENA SHOPS
The cuisine in Galena is likewise full of surprises. The Galena Brewing Company may be found on the downtown strip. Fans of beer will appreciate the variety available. On a hot day, their Farmer’s Blonde Ale went down smoothly. Pub food is well represented on the menu, but it was the one-pound pretzel that caught our eye.
We decided to have supper at Fried Green Tomatoes, which is located in the same building as the Grant family’s leather shop. Both the cedar-planked walleye and the handmade meatloaf with honey-based garlic mashed on top were huge hits with my wife and me, respectively. In a word, yes.
On our last night, we sat in Adirondack chairs on the Goldmoor’s lawn and watched the sunset across the Mississippi River from the bluff. We had only scratched the surface of Galena’s many charms. As the sun set over the river, we made plans to head back.
