Three of the Riviera’s Smallest Jewels
A sign in archaic French proclaims, “Napoleon never slept here,” outside a historic stone mansion in the charming French Riviera town of Antibes. At that moment, a man walks up to the door. He informs Annie and me that during the French Revolution, when Napoleon was imprisoned at Antibes, some of the women in his family did stay there.
In reality, on the adjacent twisting street is a public wash-house where Napoleon’s mother handled her son’s washing. We go have a look, and sure enough, a massive stone tub filled with water sits under a red tile roof, having been lovingly preserved as a historic landmark. For the French, even the laundry of their most celebrated historical figure is newsworthy. It makes exploring the nooks and crannies of ancient Antibes so satisfying.
The smaller villages along the Riviera are our favorite for their intimacy and unique character. Large hotels catering to tourists and crowds of wealthy shopping characterize the most glamorous areas such as Cannes, Nice, and Monaco. The quieter, less touristy areas often have more interesting locals, more unique experiences, and more depth of history.
An excellent Picasso museum can be found in a refurbished old villa in Antibes; it was here that the artist lived and worked effectively with his mistress in 1946. It’s a welcome change of pace for those who have braved the throng at major institutions to see his art.
WE LOVE PARIS. YOU TOO?
The structure is modest in size and design. The wait times are really short. Annie and I can take our time looking around, getting up close and personal with the artworks, and appreciating them without feeling rushed. A lovely outdoor bistro overlooking the Cap d’Antibes is also available.
The historic Cafe Absinthe dates back to the 1850s and is a great place to grab a drink, some food, or a meal if you’re not in the mood for coffee. Baudelaire and Verlaine were among the 19th century clientele who frequented this museum and drinking hole. There are vintage water fountains, pianos, and wine bottles along the walls.
Cassis, located farther west along the Mediterranean, is a charming small port and beach town. It’s calm, secure, and welcoming, and it winds around a harbor full of yachts and sportfishing vessels. Along the main embankment, commercial fishing boats unload their daily catch. The beach is overlooked by an ancient castle perched on a cliff.
The calanques, the area’s most striking natural feature, can be reached through a quick boat ride around a headland. These fjords are a natural wonder of water and high cliffs that may easily fool you into thinking you’re in Norway.
The granite walls are soaring skyward, and we have to squint to see the very top. Stunted, wind-swept junipers tenaciously cling to the occasional fissure across the nearly a thousand-foot-high vertical faces. The cliffs look like abstract paintings by a giant, with their many layers and muted tones. Where the water meets the rock, two bright red kayaks glide by. In comparison to the enormous geological dreamscape, they look like little figurines.
The area is rich in attractions and activities. The promenade beside the seaside is a great place to see some quintessential French settings. Young children like riding the carousel’s miniature horses and automobiles and spinning around like dervishes. In a dusty square surrounded by outdoor cafes, men play a game of boules. Fragrances like pink grapefruit are produced and sold by a soap and perfume factory. Dark and atmospheric, this wine bar pours rare vintages sourced from vineyards on the mountain’s doorstep.
We take a bottle back to our room, which has a little balcony overlooking a cobblestone street and is framed by wrought iron railings. It’s clean, bright, and only $100 a night, and it’s just a few steps from the waterfront’s shops and eateries.
Sometimes it’s hard to decide what to eat. Annie orders a salad with fresh tuna tartare for lunch while I go for the jumbo prawns, smoked salmon, and crab meat. She eats grilled dorado with fennel for dinner. Though the oysters seem delicious, I can’t resist the wonderful sea bass with its herb coating. Wine, cheese, and cappuccino are always available as well.
Our time in Cassis is brief, but the late-May sunshine makes up for it. We chill out in swim trunks and t-shirts, surrounded by palm trees, in the Mediterranean. Last night, a rainbow appeared across the horizon.
The Italian Riviera is full of genuine small-town life and flavor, and visitors would be remiss to miss it. Finale Ligure is a hidden gem consisting of picturesque towns along the coast to the east of Monaco and boasting a long and illustrious history. In 1666, Margaret Theresa of Spain, at 15 years old, paused for a short time her route to Vienna, where she would marry Leopold I, Holy Roman Emperor.
The central piazza features a triumphal arch commemorating the event, as well as cafes, restaurants, and a slew of children riding bikes and kicking soccer balls. A short drive away, in the village of Varigotti, are the characteristic Moorish buildings that line the coast. The Muslim Saracens, who dominated the area for about a century, constructed these in the ninth and tenth centuries.
Punta Est, a charming boutique hotel, is comprised of many lavish villas set among palms and pines and located high above a picture-perfect beach. A huge wooden hot tub, low lighting, and plush furnishings await you in a natural limestone grotto.
The cuisine is superb, particularly the seafood dishes and the native Ligurian wines. When we leave our double doors wide, we can hear the waves crashing far below and the birds singing. It’s a romantic and enchanted locale.
